D for Dear Old England

This is the story of Will and his two friends who sailed to England in 1967 to see the world. Aerogrammes. letters, diaries and postcards help to tell of his adventures in this A to Z.

#AtoZChallenge 2025 letter D
"Streets of London"   Ralph McTell  •  1969
Let me take you by the hand
And lead you through the streets of London
Show you something to make you change your mind

Wednesday, 15th February, 1967

Hello!  Well, here I am writing this letter to you from a room with three beds (very comfy) at the Overseas Visitors Centre (OVC) in London.  

The OVC offered a range of accommodation services, a restaurant, entertainment venues, assistance with finding work, a poste restante and travel information for the Continent and for those wishing to return home. (photo from Blog set up by founding members of OVC)

We arrived in Southampton at 4 am this morning but didn’t get through immigration and customs until 12 noon.  It’s very exciting leaving the ship after those six happy weeks as lots of new experiences lie ahead.  I was rapt to get your two letters on the ship before we disembarked. So good to hear news of home and how everyone is getting on. I read them three times each. Congrats Dad, I never thought that you could sail that boat without me – looks like I was wrong.

We left the docks by coach at 1 pm today for 85 miles through the English countryside, past villages and into the city which we have seen little of yet.  I’m in bed writing this and the temperature is 29°F outside but so far I’ve not been too cold. At least they speak English here and the money system is a little familiar. Things so far don’t appear too cheap, but we will save money by not spending too much. Everything – the houses and roads, cars, schools, people, are much as I had imagined them to be.

21st January, 1967, Dear Len and Iris, Lennie, Steve and Keith,

(Ow yer goin’ mate. Orright?)

England is quite an adventure.  We stayed at Earl’s Court (known as Kangaroo Gulch because of the accumulation of Australians) for a week but at last we now have a “flat”.  At least that’s what it’s supposed to be.  In Sydney you’d call it a slum but in London it’s practically first class residential.  It should be as it costs 12 Guineas Sterling (AU$32) a week but we call it home and have decorated it with posters (of Australia) and signs and it’s much improved. Flats are very expensive, and prices are approximately Australian (some cheaper, some dearer) but pay is very low. We can’t understand why all Pommies don’t migrate to Australia.

The first flat at Weltje Road in Hammersmith. The accommodation was on the first floor with other tenants above and below. This is a recent photo from Apple Maps.

The tourist attractions however are endless and it’s a bit like a game of Monopoly as you stroll along Trafalgar Square to Regent Street, Oxford Street, Piccadilly, Mayfair, Fenchurch Street, Pall Mall etc.   We visited old Buckingham Palace to say hello to Liz but the guards wouldn’t let us in.  It appears I’ll end up teaching during my stay here although I would prefer something else for a change. £15 a week is big pay here in London Town.  The clothes here are incredible. 50% of the chooms are ultra conservative (bowler hats and brollies) and the other 50% wear the most way out Carnaby Street clobber.  There seems no middle of line policy.  As you always hear, London is cold and we’ve seen very little sun at all.

Well, three months here will be interesting but after that I’ll be doing a tour around England and Scotland, then we buy a car and head for Europe.

Extract from Diary 

Wednesday, 15th February, 1967

The girls woke us up at 6:30 am as we had berthed in the harbour at 4:00 am. Permission to stay in Britain six months was granted without trouble. We were excited to have reached our destination but apprehensive about things to come. OVC Rep met us and we were through customs without bother and to London by bus 85 miles away. English countryside and city just as imagined. Stopped at pub for first English beer. 

16th February

 Underground to Westminster and saw Houses of Parliament. Went to County Council to apply for job supply teaching.  Interview appointment made for Thursday. Strolled all over London. Went to bank and collected passbook, visited Australia House and read the Australian newspapers, then along the Strand to Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s column where thousands of pigeons don’t get out of the way. To Elephant and Castle for X ray. Must have walked 20 miles and have sore feet to prove it. 

17th February

 Covered miles in the tube (underground railway) which is fast and efficient. Out to suburbs for look at a flat. London Accommodation Bureau is helpful but not much good to us. Still looking for cheapest food – fish and chips, cottage pie and spuds – anything to keep hunger away.

18th February

Visited flat at Croydon very nice, dear and too far from the tube we think. Looked at half a house and saw another where board was 12 Guineas. Ate at the Curry Bowl for 5 shillings and twopence. 

19th February 

Moved out of OVC at lunchtime and into a flat at Hammersmith in afternoon. 12 Guineas per week for two bedrooms, share bath with four uni students upstairs, no fridge, pretty Spartan and dirty but it’s home anyway. Unpacked at last. Posters and cleaning will brighten things. At least we will save money on food and accommodation from now on. Had lunch at club with free dessert. Flat now looking at least livable. 

The view of the backyard from our flat. No-one ever went out there!

20th of February

Bed was fairly comfy. Shopping now under control. Buying food, utensils at cheapest rates. Roster for cooking and cleaning. To laundromat tonight as clothes are running out. Laundromat is very good, quick and all clothes are dry. 2 shillings a wash, sixpence to dry, sixpence for soap. Played cards, wrote  letters.

21st of February

 Still eating very well and fairly cheaply. Visited Earls Court to collect mail. Graham and Neil collected some Australian posters to brighten the flat from NSW and Queensland House.

Listened to Normie Rowe and Seekers on the radio pirate stations “Caroline Ann” and “Radio London”. Normie (Rowe) to appear at Hammersmith with Trogg,  Sounds Inc and  Gene Pitney.

 22nd February 

Interviewed for job supply teaching at London County Council. Appointed to Camden Westminster Borough with possibility of permanent temp job. Lunched at Double Diamond Pub near Big Ben. Visited Discovery, Scott’s ship on the Thames.

 24th of February

Phone rang in arvo. Schools LCC offered me a permanent position at Essendine Primary School, Maida Vale. Report on Monday. School starts 8.55 am. Head Mr Hepple. Keith offered permanent temp at Primrose Hill and Phil, supply at Brickfield School. They were very keen to give us permanent appointment to July. That’s too long but it will have to do.

Sunday 26th February

Up at 9.00am and caught a train to Liverpool Street Station.  Strolled up World Famous Petticoat Lane and surrounding streets where all sorts of hawkers and street sellers were. Lots of dressed up monkeys, swarming with people between 10 am and 2 pm. Bought a deer stalker (Sherlock Holmes hat £1) and GB army badge.  Visited Dirty Dick’s Pub, an amazing hotel where everyone writes their name on the wall. Visited the Tower Bridge and the Tower built by William the Conqueror in 1066.

Monday 27th February

Arrived at Essendine School.  Boss is OK.  Building is large and old but fairly well furnished. Staff consists of three New Zealanders, one Canadian, one American, one Australian (me) and seven Poms. Class is a 4th year class due for high school in July.  English schools are so different – attitudes are much more casual.  Kids are abour 45% West Indian with deprived home backgrounds.  Described by headmaster as “a little wild”.  Standards of work are not as high, but this is the “liberal” education.

Essendine School in 1967

Tuesday 28th February

The day was cold with snow that melted as it flaked down to the ground. School is very different to home as morning and afternoon cups of tea breaks are long.  There is very little playground duty (10 minutes a week).  Lunches are fabulous.  For 2/4 you get a full sized baked dinner with the lot, as much as you can eat and dessert. Kids haven’t worked out who’s boss but they will soon.

Wednesday 1st March Tuesday 28th February

Shero (Will’s headmistress in Australia) would haemorrhage at these schools.  Chaos is normal procedure.  Looks like I can have the job to the summer vacation if I can stick it. This will include pay for 3 ½ weeks but I could have an ulcer by then.

Neil and I are on cooking and washing up roster.  We have eaten quite well since we moved into the flat.  Pommies from upstairs visted the cave and Gus walked in with nine birds on a social visit.  Bed late again 1 am.  Must get some sleep one day.

Front view of the flat at “The Hammer” – the original inhabitants

Tues 21st March

Finished school today for three and a half week Easter break which is the end of 2nd Term.  Sherry Party in the staff room at lunchtime is customary for any staff member departing.  All delightfully cheery as class resumed.  Can’t help remembering Shero’s little “get-togethers” over lemonade after school amid the sparkling conversation.

10 thoughts on “D for Dear Old England

      1. That backyard looks much like those I saw when I visited my cousin in New York about that same time. People just threw stuff down there and nobody cleaned it up. Very odd I thought.

        Liked by 2 people

  1. these stories are so fascinating. Going to England sounded so adventurous back in the day but was obviously a very mixed bag. The cost of living must have been a bit scary and I bet those work lunches were appreciated. How fabulous that Will kept such good records.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Another fun letter that brought back so many memories. I loved Normie Rowe. We forget how spoilt we are when we complain these days about the long flight to England.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Right to work! And the cost of slummy rental units! Glad they had a real holiday on the journey over. I loved “Things so far don’t appear too cheap, but we will save money by not spending too much.”

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a comment