C for Camels in Cairo

This is the story of a young man and his two friends who sailed to England in 1967 to see the world. Aerogrammes. letters, diaries and postcards help to tell the adventures of “Will” and his friends in this A to Z.

#AtoZChallenge 2025 letter C
"Like A Rolling Stone"    Bob Dylan • 1965
How does it feel, ah how does it feel?
To be on your own, with no direction home
Like a complete unknown, like a rolling stone

Red Sea, Friday, 3rd February,1967

Hello! How are things?  I’m writing this letter from a deck chair.  Tomorrow, we arrive at Suez and will leave the ship for a 16-hour excursion to Cairo where we will visit the Pyramids of Giza and Cheops (the Pharoahs) and the Sphinx.  It’s costing us $15 each including lunch and rides on the camels through the desert (we sound like a bunch of tourists).

Phil and Will at the Sphinx

Since I last wrote we have visited Aden, Southern Arabia.  We stood on deck as the ship came into harbour at 9 pm and the lights were quite bright.  After berthing alongside a pontoon, the ship began to refuel as oil is plentiful and very cheap there.  Hundreds of little boats selling transisters etc and lots of Arabs surrounded the ship. Of course, we weren’t allowed off because of the curfew and had heard over the radio of people who had been killed in the street the day before.  The prices were comparable with Singapore, maybe even slightly cheaper.  I had itchy fingers for a tape recorder, shaver, typewriter, polaroid camera etc but no use carting them round Europe so maybe I’ll get something on the return trip.  I bought, however, a share in a slide previewer for $2. Watches – good ones – ranged from $4 up.  We fuelled up at 2 am.  Phil bought a flash attachment ($9), Gus a record player and radio ($20).

The Red Sea is wider than I thought.  I saw only a brief view of Africa but there are many ships, especially oil tankers. (It’s not Red but ordinary Blue).

We crossed the Tropic of Cancer yesterday and the port of Mecca so now the weather should start getting more piccadilly (chilly) as it is winter in the Northern Hemisphere.  The hottest day we ever had was 90° F and the moving ship creates a pleasant breeze. Life on board sails sweetly by.  I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll have enough strength left to carry my bags at Southampton since we don’t get enough exercise.

Last night was a United Nations feast and the Aussies and Kiwis put on a floor show.  I didn’t go in it for a change, but it was still a good show! The Kiwis were sensational with their Maori act while the Australians provided the amusement and laughs.  The feast was mickey mouse with roast pig and lobster.  Some guy who was Ceylonese and studied down at Adelaide sang like Nat King Cole and stole the show.  (Ed. Research indicates it was very likely Kamahl, who became a well known performer in Australia). We adjourned to the cabin for a party – finally got to sleep at 5.30am.

Postcard from Egypt

We arrive in Naples tomorrow so only time for a card.  Egypt was fab.  We left the ship at 5 am and drove 100 miles through the desert in a Mercedes Benz bus to Cairo and the Nile River.  On the way we passed a Bedouin tribe (Nomads) with camels, goats and sheep. We saw an empty palace which once belonged to Farouk’s grandfather.  There was a bad road accident on the narrow road.  Saw the mummies of Tutankhaman, the Pharaohs etc and then to Giza and into the tomb of Cheops, climbing along a claustrophobic tunnel.  Rode on a camel to Pyramids and dined in the Nile Hilton Hotel.  Cairo was surprisingly modern in some ways but pro-communist with Nasser’s picture up everywhere.  Later we passed the ships as they came through the Suez and reached Port Said where we boarded the ship after 20 hours in the United Arab Republic.  Well, Italy in a few hours as we can see it out the porthole and to Mt Vesuvius, Pompeii – Arrividerci – Will

Will on a camel. The camel owner said “If you don’t give me big tip camel go very fast”.

Thursday 9th February, 1967

The last note I wrote was on a card before Italy so I’ll keep you up to date.  The trip through Egypt was fascinating but it was a long time (22 hours) away from the ship.  On the way into Cairo we saw rows of planes, tanks and army trucks originating from Russia. They were preparing for war against Israel. (Ed. Six months later the Six Day War broke out and the assembled war equipment was systematically destroyed by Israeli bombers).

After we boarded again at Port Said we had a smooth crossing of the Mediterranean.  About a third of the passengers were disembarking in Naples including the current girlfriend so I will be free-lancing again. There is no shortage of girls and they even buy their own drinks (most of the time). We had a Farewell Dinner (feast) and Dance which was a great show.    Italy (Naples) was so interesting we decided to return at a later time by car.  We spent quite a few hours in Pompeii which was buried by Mt Vesuvius erupting in 85 AD and is very well preserved.  They are still excavating. Also saw a cameo factory where brooches etc were reasonably priced.  

Ruins of Pompeii with Mt Vesuvius in background

Snow was on the mountains in the background and the temperature was cool. We did some shopping for a couple of little things and managed on a mixture of Italian and English (mostly English).  Capri and Sorrento should be worth seeing in the Bay of Naples.  We’ll see them at a later date. We passed the Rock of Gibralter at 3.00am one morning so we had a party and saw it lit in the night (us too). After passing the coast of Spain and Portugal we thought the Bay of Biscay was disappointing (not rough enough).  We really warmed the ship up on the last few nights as we said our farewells and exchanged addresses of all the people we met. Had a bugger of a time getting everything in the bags since I had a bottle of Scotch, 400 cigs (5 shillings and fourpence in Choomland).  We will sell at 250% profit (duty free).  I might drink the Scotch however, as I hear it’s very expensive in Scotland.

18 thoughts on “C for Camels in Cairo

  1. I doubt I’d enjoy feasting on mickey mouse, but the roast pig and lobster sound okay.😉

    It’s amazing how focused he is on buying camera equipment and electronics at nearly every port.

    What a fabulous collection of letters and photos to create this. I’ll bet not many people get to do this at that age anymore.

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  2. I love his language: “Egypt was fab”! They really made the most of the journey, didn’t they? Although my family and I stopped at most of those ports, we didn’t get off and go sightseeing. Wish we had! And thank goodness they just missed the Six-Day War.

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  3. I Just read the first 3 installments. How captivating! I’m not sure why travelers always feel the need to write about how much everything costs in their correspondence. I did the same exact thing in my letters the 2 years I lived in Russia. My Theme this year is the ABC’s of me. I’ll talk a little about Russia tomorrow. Here is a link to my C post.

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    1. I have checked out your posts so far and made a comment. Thanks for visiting. Will goes to Russia briefly in 1968 so I’ll be interested to read of your experiences there.

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  4. I got lots of laughs from this incl Mickey Mouse, the camel owner’s strategy for a big tip, and the “current girlfriend”.
    Weren’t they well dressed for the visit in Egypt…you can imagine today’s styles. Wonderful they’re still friends all these years later.

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