This is the story of Will and his two friends who sailed to England in 1967 to see the world. Aerogrammes. letters, diaries and postcards help to tell of their adventures in this A to Z.
“Galway Bay” Bing Crosby • 1947
If you ever go across the sea to Ireland
Then maybe at the closing of your day
You will sit and watch the moon rise over Claddagh
And watch the barefoot gossoons at their play
Extract from Diary
Friday, 26th May 1967 Whitsun Midterm Holiday Break
After school, we caught the Tube to Euston and then the Dublin train (100 mph) to Holyhead, Wales. Bleary eyed we boarded the ship “Cambria” at 2.30 am setting sail across Irish Sea at 3.20 am. It was very cold but the seas were smooth. We arrived in Dublin at 7.30 am.
Saturday 27th May
This morning we collected the car, a Viva Leprechaun, from Ryans. After our uncomfortable night we booked a cabin for the return trip. Our first port of call was Bray heading south. We drove through poor mountainous country, wet heath and bogs in misty weather. We continued south to Tullon and on to Wexford, a shipping port with very narrow streets and of course the usual church ruins. I stopped driving and started sleeping. We continued thence to Arthur’s Town where we checked into a youth hostel. Once settled in we strolled around to the small fishing village of Ballyhack which was virtually untouched by progress.
Sunday 28th May
The morning began with a drive to Tintern Abbey (mentioned in Wordsworth’s Poem), then to Waterford (glass manufacturing town) and on to Cashel where we checked out St Dominican’s Abbey used since 11th Century for Kings, Priests etc.
Then it was off to Tipperary (not such a long way to go). There we had ham sandwiches, Guinness and Irish bread. It was really tasty, and very pleasant overlooking Glen Allerlow in the sun, which was warm. I had driven 100 miles so Norma took over while I had a sleep in the back seat over the last few hours. We tried to view Blarney Castle but rain was pouring down so we headed back to Cork and checked into the hostel which is large and has hot showers for 6d. The girls cooked a three course dinner after which we went for a drive around Cork until 9.30 pm where it was still quite light.
Impressions of Ireland so far
- Beautiful countryside. Very green and lush
- People friendly with enchanting accents
- Churches everywhere – 95% of population is very Catholic. Evident with many statues and crosses
- People fiercely nationalistic
- Republic flags everywhere
- British money widely used
- Statues of heroes of the Revolution are very popular
- Many Churches, abbeys and castle ruins dot the countryside
- Very rural country with not much industry: materials (linen, tweed), some glass, beer (Guinness), fishing, appear to be main non-rural industries
- Irish names everywhere: Ryan, Murphy, O’Flarety, Bryne, O’Connel, McNamara etc
- Roads fairly good. All sealed – country ones are narrow but trunk roads satisfactory
- Car is beauty. Goes very well and plenty of space
- Food slightly dearer than in England. Petrol is dear
- Weather – very changeable. Blue skies to black and heavy rain to blue again all in the space of half an hour, all day
Monday 29th May
We left the hostel after sweeping chores at 9.15 am. From Cork we drove back to Blarney where we visited the castle complete with dungeons and towers, got with the strength and kissed the Blarney stone which bestows the gift of eloquence. Wow!
We made Bantry for lunch, with a Carlsberg beer by the harbourside. Along Bantry Bay we drove to Glengorriff through Turner’s Rock tunnel to Kenmare, You drive in to the tunnel in County Cork and exit it in County Kerry or vice versa.
Turner’s Rock Tunnel was built in the 19th century. The tunnel is 180 metres in length and is 3.65 metres in height. Due to it’s height, no operating tour buses can fit through the tunnel.
We then entered the scenic drive of Ring of Kerry where peat bogs featured. It was quite beautiful as we drove from Dingle Bay to Killarney. Here we checked into the hostel which was an old estate mansion. The halls were big enough to hold a ball.
Tuesday 30th May
This morning we drove into Killarney where we became tourists and boarded a horse and carriage for a drive along the banks of Lough Leane where cars are not permitted.
It was very pretty as the sun shone on remains of the castle built 1420, destroyed 1645 by Oliver Cromwell. Out to Mangerton I thought it was a dead spit of Jamberoo Falls (waterfall in south coast of NSW). In Tralee we did some shopping and stopped for a picnic lunch on the banks of the River Shannon.
In the afternoon we arrived in Limerick to check out Norma’s penfriend, who is quite nice and stopped for a couple of Guinness at a small pub.
Impressions:
- Red hair quite common
- Quote: It’s going to be a good tourist season.
- Religion: Gerrard (penfriend’s husband) blessed himself every time he passed a church.
- Lady on bicycle blessed herself as she passed three nuns (seated on park bench with their backs to her).
- Donkeys and carts still main form of transport in country areas.
The Bed and Breakfast in Limerick was very comfortable. After dinner we drove out to Bunratty Castle where a banquet was to be held that night (for tourists). We explored an old castle ruin on the return trip. Then we were off to Cruises Hotel, Limerick for an Irish Ballad Session with very good singing and dancing and filled with American tourists.
Wednesday 31st May
We were up at 7.30 am and I enjoyed a hot bath. Gerrard took us out to Bunratty on the way to Galway and showed us around Irish cottages and the castle. We then drove on to Galway arriving 11.30am singing Galway Bay as we drove along its banks. The weather was warm so I put on togs and had a quick, cold swim. Sandwiches and a beer for lunch in warm sun were very enjoyable. It was very poor land, rocky, with depressed thatched cottages and rock fences.
Printed and Published by John Hinde, Dublin
On and on we drove through land producing hardly anything but peat (turf) for fires. It was a fast trip as I sent the Viva along quickly through country roads to Sligo. Here we sent a postcard to Bill McGrath, Principal of Wollongong Teachers College as his ancestors came from here.
We drove eight miles out to Glencar and into a small quaint hostel, 16 beds only, in pretty countryside, water from the well, wash in lake or brook. After dinner we enjoyed a stroll along the road at 10.30 pm when dusk was beginning to fall.
Thursday, 1st June
After breakfast I had to scrub floors, finally leaving at 9am. We drove around Glencar Lake to Ballyshannon and Donegal. Checked out the castle, saw gypsies and arrived at the border of Northern Ireland where we talked to customs men (socially). To London, Derry where we sang the “London Derriere” (Danny Boy).
Northern Ireland (Ulster) although like the Republic in many ways was noticeably different. The standard of living appears much higher, roads better, towns more modern, less churches (hardly any Catholic, by comparison). Farms are more fertile and more mechanised (a few donkeys only).
We lunched in a lay-by beside a creek and baked in the Buttered Bun as Big Hughie was really listening to the stout sacrifice. Then we moved on to Limavady, Coleraine, Port Stewart (small seaside town) where we bought ice creams and posted slides. At the Giant’s Causeway we walked for a mile to see funny rocks, columns and steps of basalt. Buttered Bun Beaming Brightly (alliteration).
At the end of a scenic road we reached Bally Gally where there was a magic hostel. After checking in we walked along the beach and had a beer in an expensive hotel. We could see Scotland 45 miles away across the sea.
Friday, 2nd June
On the way to Belfast, capital of North Ireland, we gave Belgium Harry a lift. We parked and walked around, bought food, got lost, and couldn’t find car for one hour. People were helpful for directions. The accent is more Scot and English than the charming Irish accent. Belfast has a population of half a million, has a good shopping centre and we saw more industry (mostly ship building) here than in the rest of Ireland.
The weather was overcast so although parts of the country were quite beautiful the weather didn’t make us enthusiastic sight see-ers so we sang as we drove. Passing through Mourne Mountains we sang “ Mountains of Mourne Sweep Down to the Sea”. On to Slane where St Patrick introduced Christianity to Ireland and up a country lane to Tara, seat of the Irish Kings and also where the Irish revolution of 1798 took place. Heading for home we drove down to Dublin with 1400 miles on the speedo since we began. We checked into a Dublin Hostel at 7.30 pm, bought chips and beefburgers for dinner. Although it is a large hostel it is full.
Saturday 3rd June
I only had a cold wash this morning as there was no shower or hot water. First stop was the station to cloak in bags and then we had to return the car. After visiting the Art Gallery, we saw the Garden of Remembrance to “those who died in the cause of Irish freedom”. The girls suggested we go to church to see a Catholic mass. It was quite interesting but when everyone knelt, Fred and I slipped out the back way.
Impressions of Dublin: Streets filthy – saw Dublin castle – pretty weak, and also another church. Ate at restaurant with terrible food. Then to movie to see Casino Royale which was corny. Ate at movie cafeteria (good) then walked to station. Altogether we weren’t too enchanted with Dublin but this didn’t dampen our enthusiasm for the remainder of Ireland where we had an A1 holiday.
The ship had a comfy cabin and hot water. Wash, beer, coffee, bed.
Sunday 4th June
Up at 6.30am. The ship was already in port. Breakfast, then straight onto train, sightseeing through Wales countryside. Fast, comfy train to Euston with compartment to ourselves. Arrived 1.20 pm, caught tube home.
The Curry Apple Orchard 